What’s Growin’ On
Murphy’s Gardens newsletter - February, 18 2010
Just a few seed starting tips for those of you who like to start your own seeds!
I know you are anxious, but be patient!
Don’t let these sunny early spring days fool you. We still are about 12 weeks away from our last frost date, so annuals, vegetables and most herbs shouldn’t get sown for several weeks yet. Many annuals, herbs & veggies only take 6 weeks. Perennials take 8-10 or more and can be sown earlier, but if you are starting seeds indoors, you are better to wait on those too. Seeds started inside a home, stretch for sunlight, no matter how many artificial grow lights you have on them. You are better waiting to start a bit later and transplanting a smaller, less “leggy” (spindly) plant with a good root system. But...here are a few things you should know to help you get started.
Do your research - know them to grow them. This encompasses everything from studying what conditions your seeds need to break dormancy, what conditions they like once they’ve sprouted and how long it will take not only to germinate but to be ready for transplanting. Seed packets don’t tell you everything you need to know, so get yourself a good book or do some additional research on the Internet.
From Seed to Bloom by Powell is an excellent book for almost any plant - one I still refer too today.
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Some seeds (like most perennials) need to be stratified. They need a period of cold to break dormancy. Most of the time this can be accomplished by storing your perennial seeds in the refrigerator for 6-8 weeks. It simulates winter. Many re-seeding annuals require stratification also.
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Some seeds need darkness to germinate, some light (some of this relates to soil cover)
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Some need to be soaked in water for 24 hours (like parsley, morning glories, sweet peas)
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Some need cool soil, some warm
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Some seeds germinate in a couple days...some take weeks or months!
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Buy quality seeds form reputable sources
I can’t tell you how many dollars and hours I wasted learning this lesson in the early days! .10 seeds are no bargain most times. We stock Chas Hart seeds here, but we can certainly recommend some excellent catalog sources as well: Johnny’s Select Seeds, Pinetree Garden Seeds & Baker Creek Heirloom Seeds are some of our favorites. Johnny’s have excellent cultural tips on their website. Seeds are popular these days – order early!
Tools of the trade
The most important rule is to use a professional Germination Mix and/or Potting Mix (without added fertilizer) NEVER use potting soil or garden soil (for starting seeds indoors)!
Use containers with plenty of drainage holes
Tomatoes & Peppers start well in peat pellet trays with plastic domes
General rules:
Typically, the smaller the seed the less you will cover it with soil. If you bury a small seed too deeply, it will not have enough energy to reach the top of the soil and will die. Most get covered with not more than 1/4” of soil - many less than that. Very fine seeds often don’t get covered at all – instead they get pressed gently into the soil to get good contact.
Water your soil media first, then sow the seeds, then gently water them in with a fine watering can or mister. If you don’t moisten your soil first, you will wash the seed away while you are trying to get the soil wet.
Cover your trays or pots with a plastic dome until germination has taken place. When you see green, uncover and move them to good light for 12 to 14 hours per day.
Be careful about watering! Keep the soil moist, but not wet. Do not let young seedlings dry out or drown!
Allow time for “hardening off” in the spring. Young seedlings are very delicate and can be harmed by
sun, wind and cold. More tips next month or ask us a question on email or Facebook!